Alex MacIntyre (1954-1982)
MacIntyre, one of the legendary early 70s Leeds University group,
epitomised the last hurrah of a macho era when climbers pursued birds
n booze, sported big hair and persisted in calling each other
Dirty Alex as he was known, (a reference to his charmingly
chaotic personal lifestyle, as one of his obituarists coyly put
it) was a leading player in the British charge back into the Alps in the
mid-late 70s when the front-point revolution was exported to the
continent. An élite group of Brits pushed the standards, particularly
on ice, shocking the complacent French and Italians to get their act together.
For a brief period they reigned supreme. Among McIntyre's finest Alpine
moments was his one-day ascent of the Grand Jorasses Shroud
and an audacious night time first ascent of the Central Couloir
on the same mountain with Nick Colton.